![]() Use an angle grinder to remove any burrs around the hole that is drilled. I used a drill press, but a hand-held drill will work just fine. Using a 5/32" drill bit, going slow, drill two holes in each bracket tab using the center punch dimple as your guide. This dimple helps keep the center point of your drill bit right on the center of the hole location. I used a center punch to create a dimple on my marked points. I poked a pencil through the paper template to allow me to mark each bracket using a sharpie. I like when things are consistent, so I created a template from a scrap piece of paper and marked where I wanted the holes to be located. These holes will allows two screws to secure the final shelf bracket (c-clamp) to the wall. I don't like having sharp ends on anything I build and also thought the rounded corners would look more finished.Įach bracket needs to have two holes drilled in it. I used my angle grinder to grind away the corners of the bracket on the opposite side from where it was being welded. For my clamp, a tab of approximately 3 1/8" was the right length. My c-clamp has a slightly curved surface where the tab will be attached, so I measured the length that I thought would allow for a weld to secure it. I wanted the tab to be long enough to accommodate two screws being screwed into the wall. The tab is a piece of the 1" x 1/8" flat steel bar. WELDING OPTION: Start by measuring how long you want your tab to be on your finished c-clamp bracket. Let me know if you try this route and how it works for you! The bracket would essentially clamp the vertical upright section of the clamp to the wall. I did not do this option, but I included a few drawings of a U shaped bracket that could be made from flat bar steel using a hammer and bench vice (assuming you don't have a bending brake tool). The only reason to go this route is if don't have access to a welder and don't want to pay a welder to do the welding. I am creating 3 brackets for my 4' shelf because I want my shelf to be able to hold heavy items.Īlternatively, you could choose to fabricate brackets that hold/squeeze your c-clamps to the wall and avoid welding. The route I chose was to weld a tab to act as a bracket that can be screwed to the wall to allow the c-clamp to be securely fastened to the wall. The c-clamps need to be fastened to the wall. Going this eclectic route, you would have different finishes on each clamp and their worn look would add to the final shelf. But alternatively, it would be super cool to find an eclectic collection of well used clamps from a flea market and use different clamps to build your shelf. I bought my c-clamps new and they match perfectly and it looks great. Screws and (optionally) drywall handing hardware to hang your new shelf.4' x 8" x 3/4" wood for shelf (I used a rough sawn piece of walnut, but you can use anything including just depends on the look you are trying to achieve).Steel wool (to scuff the clamp's painted surface prior to painting).2 or 3 c-clamps, I bought 5" deep throat clamps from Harbor Freight for $4.99 each).Center finder (I 3D printed mine using a model by Geir from thingiverse) Īnd you will need the following materials:.Miter saw, I used an electric compound miter saw, but any saw will work.Drill and 31/64" drill bit (wood handle), 5/32" drill bit (bracket mount holes), 1/8" drill bit (wood dowel) and wood countersink bit.If you don't have a welder, consider buying one.or else find a local welder and have parts welded as it should not cost more then $20. (sorta optional, but encouraged) Mig welder, you can use any type of welder that you have available.Use your imagination and substitute other tools where appropriate to make use of what you have available. I tried to use minimal tools for this project. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |